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Daniel

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#41   2018-05-24 19:50          
Camshaft sensor usually gives you issues, but it will still start. Crankshaft sensor usually makes it not start.

Also about code readers, they are not always able to tell those two appart, because they run on the same circuit or something like that.

Yeah it's not super important how the rockers look as long as they are done properly, the most important part is the jacking points so you dont end up having a jack or jackstand go through the rocker, pushing the whole jacking point in.

My old E39 had that on both rear jacking points.

"Spiritually, everything should be turbocharged" - Turbo Yoda.

David_2709

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#42   2018-05-24 22:00          
like I said, I have the previous mentioned symptoms. I have no idea myself anymore, only thing I can do is lift out the oil cap and see if my revs change. I got software from a E39 forum user, need to order cables and read it out. I don't want to spend the money replacing both parts even though they aren't /that/ expensive, but my job screwed me a little over money-wise. Looking for a new one asap.

Daniel

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#43   2018-05-25 02:41          
Oh btw, my E39 used to have starting issues, as in long cranking if it had stayed off for more than one day, and starting issues when warm and "laggy" acceleration up untill 3000. I replaced 3 coils (since I didnt check the codes I took a chance and replaced 3 randomly) and the issues went away. Although I should mention that I replaced fuel filter and crankshaft sensor a little earlier, was going to replace the camshaft too but never got around to doing it.

But like I said, oil in spark plug holes is often caused by leaking valve cover gasket. I believe that CAN cause some running issues as well. If not, its still a very common M5x thing.

"Spiritually, everything should be turbocharged" - Turbo Yoda.

Dr. Zoom

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#44   2018-05-25 07:54          
Hm, my Fiesta have bit slow starting and loss power at high speed. I discover there service way over-due because the spark plug look like worn out which mean it won't burn fuel and air very well and it possible threw cat faulty code from O2 sensor. I replace air filter, oil filter, pollen filter, changed oil and replace all 4 spark plugs, then she started up quicker and bought all power back. Could be worth check service due date?! Oil on your spark plug may need compression test, it could be failure piston, gasket, or worn valve guild.

Oil spark plug = Harder to ignition air and fuel mixture = Weaker starting.

(Underline is possible faulty that have oily on spark plug)


Car that I own in real: Ford Fiesta 54 plate 1.4 Flame.
Formerly known as Hidden Username.

David_2709

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#45   2018-05-25 16:57          
I serviced the whole car already, the picture of the spark plugs is when I pulled them out. Only thing to do now is an oil change. Battery is fully charged (3x charged to full by a shop). Air filter is changed, interior filter is changed, fuel filter will be changed soon. It runs fine in idle and revs fine (power only really comes 3.000 rpm + ). It is definitively one of the two things I mentioned. It doesn't matter if warm or cold, it always starts after 4 cranks. I'll wait on the software just to be sure and then fix it.

Side note, door step trims and orange front blinker sockets arrived today, sick

Dr. Zoom

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#46   2018-05-26 10:18          
# David_2709 : I serviced the whole car already, the picture of the spark plugs is when I pulled them out. Only thing to do now is an oil change. Battery is fully charged (3x charged to full by a shop). Air filter is changed, interior filter is changed, fuel filter will be changed soon. It runs fine in idle and revs fine (power only really comes 3.000 rpm + ). It is definitively one of the two things I mentioned. It doesn't matter if warm or cold, it always starts after 4 cranks. I'll wait on the software just to be sure and then fix it.

Side note, door step trims and orange front blinker sockets arrived today, sick
What about I said before about compression test?


Car that I own in real: Ford Fiesta 54 plate 1.4 Flame.
Formerly known as Hidden Username.

BLiTZ

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#47   2018-05-26 10:54          
That might be a thing^.My car sat years in the parking lot and after I did a half rebuild changing the oil retainer rings it pulled differently above 3.5k rpm.I had bad compression on piston 2 and thats perhaps because of the old rubber that went to plastic quality over the years of not being used
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David_2709

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#48   2018-06-11 22:41          
Orange sockets installed, trunk struts installed aswell. Wanted to swap the Radio Unit but got stuck on dismantling since the screw was different from what I've seen online. Floormats installed aswell, they have great quality, sadly don't have any pictures. Bad thing is that I discovered a wet driver's footwell. Probably either a blocked drain or from the bottom jack point. Swapped the side blinkers to clear ones aswell, the right side was glued in. Probably from a fender bender since the fender is folded at the front, resulting in a not-so-good headlight flush. Will get a used fender for 50 bucks off a partout car somewhere in fall either way. Picked up the front lip aswell, I am amazed that it really was original, unopened from 1996 (!), with original recipe.

Took the car out for a "legal" testdrive without plates, now it pulls better than before. Probably needed a good blast to get all that gunk out of the engine from the previous owners. Still waiting on a readout cable from Asia overseas. Shouldn't have cheaped out 7 or so bucks to get it sooner. Also still waiting on the blinker stalk, warning triangle and door trim from ebay. Fucking lazy ass.


that was the first try, was pretty fun

Daniel

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#49   2018-06-12 15:56          
Water on the floor can also be the vapor barrier behind the door card. Common BMW problem.

Glue it back on with Tec 7 or something similar (if that's the problem).

"Spiritually, everything should be turbocharged" - Turbo Yoda.

David_2709

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#50   2018-06-16 20:27          
primered my fender, gonna paint it tomorrow. Have something fancy planned. It needs to be replaced anyway, you can see the rust hole on the bottom.


german engineering quality:


also stickers


Back_in_Black

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#51   2018-06-16 22:42          
just because it's german, doesn't mean that the quality is good nowadays xd

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David_2709

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#52   2018-11-18 01:03          
long time no update, massive shit things happening.
This is the fucky wucky I did with the fender, did this with 2 friends so they put their things onto it aswell, I'd never write hoonigan on my car, ever.

Changed the camshaft sensor, car ran very good, took it out for a spin in the industrial area. Buddy in his 65 Mustang floored it and shot a stone through the rear window. Got a used one, but putting it in I think I bend the outer trim, I ripped off the manual rear window handle because of stupidity and the inner door card does not sit well.


fancy ass outfit, I know. My style is on point, only real hot bois wear dirty adidas pants and a frites shirt.


this is the suspect in question, lol

The battery was broken, the damn fucking ignition lock broke down when the battery died aswell, so it was broken down for a week on the street until I got it towed to a mechanic.

total was around 400 bux for a new custom made ignition lock cylinder, new steering wheel lock and labor.
I sold the Styling 66 to a enthusiast from NL, found it interesting that he made such a trip to me. He gave me his old Styling 33 wheels and we agreed on a price. Later picked up two Styling 33 rims with 2 winter tires for free aswell, so I got new winter tires and fit them all around. The Styling 66 were too wide, my alignment is fucked, the dampers are old and it seemed to tight for the car, when I lifted the car the tires were rubbing inside, when on the floor I had a thumb wide space between, which seemed unsafe to me. It is odd because they are OEM rims and the suspension difference between the models is limited to dampers and rear brake discs only. I assume it is because of the different rear brakes for the bigger engine sizes.



I took the car out for a spin before the ignition lock broke, took it to a spray painter (neighbour) who has a nice lowered e39 (and now slammed e38), found out about some things. Through another bmw insider I got more infos with the VIN, more about that later.

I have a very tight driveway and made the mistake of driving into there once, I scraped my front bumper on that but I don't care because piece of shit car.

Anyway, this was before it went to Poland for Rust repair, the guys over there just want 300 Euro for both sideskirt welding and preservation.

Basically, I found out in three days that my car had a side impact in 2004, when I got it sold as "accident free", I am the fifth owner, it got sold me as three owners. The first holder was a rental company, I can not get more information on the accident due to the data law, I tried looking for the owner (2nd one), but I could not find him. The rocker panels were, as expected rusted, but the whole car is a mess. Dead Vanos (new part ordered, else exhaust inspection would fail), catalysator clogged or empty, the brakes need to be changed (I knew of that), the alignment is fucky wucky to the max), driveshaft joint bearing, the handbrake cable snapped, brake line needs to be laid properly, the waterpump is leaking and I have wasted (with buying price) almost 6k into this pos. I am regretting it, because the papers were twice at the lawyer's office due to fraud, but I pulled out twice because a lot of other circumstances that came too quickly and (now looking back at them) were not well thought after. I have two cars now, the F10 525xdA and the 520i. I will put the E39 up for sale when it comes back, but I doubt I can get what I want for it. If it doesn't sell I will keep it.

Here's two videos, one where battery and ignition lock died and the car was stuck in ignition on, the battery was so flat that the inside light was dimming in the beat of the warning lights.
Youtube Link since the editor doesn't work
also still rips one tire fires with no power and being an absolute shitbox
Link 2

This post was edited by David_2709 (2018-11-18 01:13, 22 days ago)

MACKAY

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#53   2018-11-18 10:25          
Fuck fuck fuck man, 400euros for ignition lock? I could have sent you one for like 25€ with the original key of it, just change it and go, I feel like you were scammed and paid way too much :| If you need any e39 parts, hit me up, my friend runs e39 “chop shop” so we can source any type of shit, and we are in baltic country, so sending it to germany is not a problem. Also I am jelous of that F10 haha! Better spend some proper cash on F10 now instead of 39’ but I know the feeling of keeping the car running so I understand. ;d

David_2709

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#54   2018-11-18 23:47          
400 euros total, I wanted to keep the original key for it. 82 Euro for a custom made lock from the dealer, 107 Euro for the steering wheel lock (couldn't get used because of part compatibility with VIN, BN44845) and ~200 in labor which is because it is a lot of work to change both locks. I couldn't do it myself since the anti theft screws need to be drilled out and I had no drill at the time.
hm, baltic states and chop shop, nothing suspicious x)
I need cash for parts first, the suspension could use a overhaul. Dampers were changed at 45k somehow, so the current ones have 140k km down. Might slap a TA Technix in, I had the coils at home but send them back because my priorities changed. I still have the MK Motorsport lip in my basement and I reckon Styling 109 rims from the X3 would look good on the E39, but I am still unsure about the future of the car.
The F10 is not fully mine either, I will try to return it. It is a very complicated situation. But don't worry, I can fuck it up either way lol

BLiTZ

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#55   2018-11-19 10:14          
Well I can tell from personal experience ,Ta-technix are very very hard.It will make your car ridiculously rigid but it's tough driving over bumps and potholes,especially where I live.They do have comfort springs in the setup but it feels like it rides on bare metal :)) (I put them on my Fiat but I'm too lazy to make a post about it)
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Daniel

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#56   2018-11-19 12:19          
TA-Technix is garbage

"Spiritually, everything should be turbocharged" - Turbo Yoda.

MACKAY

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#57   2018-11-19 20:10          
Of course nothing suspicious, buy cheap or from uk and then strip them haha.

You get what you pay for even though in my opinion TA-Technix's is not that bad, same as MTS' ones, obviously it is not thousand bucks coilovers or some shit but they do the job fine, I ran them myself, most guys I know run them too, and they hold up pretty well even for few seasons, there is guy who run thems for like 4 years now and a lot of mileage on them and they still performs just fine.

78turbo

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#58   2018-11-19 22:29          
I have ta-technix in my mk5 jetta, NEVER AGAIN, horribly stiff, the best cheap coilover would have to be jom bluelines, only issue is they dont go as low, if you want to go very low fk engineering ones go lower than both, i have them in my e46 but they are very hard, this is my first post, sorry if im intruding lol

David_2709

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#59   2018-11-20 19:45          
afaik all the cheap suspension are made in the same factory anyway, so JOM or TA or what ever makes no difference. Yes they are hard as fuck, the better "cheap" option would be the AP adjustable ones, but no one is selling them used. Currently there are two used ones for sale, one for 250 that is reserved, and one brand new one for 550, but I do not want to pay that much. I don't have any cash at the moment either way or else I'd have copped that one for two fiddy.
oh btw @Mackay if you have a welded diff for fiddy bucks hmu lol

MACKAY

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#60   2018-11-20 21:57          
Some people are paying 250eur or less for coilovers and are thinking it will be as good as BC' or some shit, because they are cheap and hard does not mean you should avoid them. Because I like hard ride and I ain't "stancing" hard I have no complains about those coilovers as they made car handle very well considering their price, it performs well for their price even on a track day.

Eh.. Sadly only diesel stuff and afaik they are different from petrol ones as in 36'es and etc, but I can get one there for around 20-25eur (thats for how much they go here), do the welding properly myself for another 10eur or so and send it to you :)) But I have no idea how it would reach you, one possible cheap way is trough private couriers maybe who travels from Lithuania to Germany and etc, so another 15-20eur I believe as thats how much they usually charge me for transporting from Norway to LT. Don't tell me the prices in Germany for such stuff is quite high or you haven't looked for one ? :d

Daniel

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#61   2018-11-21 01:04          
I have AP on my E90 and they're fairly decent for the price. A bit too soft in the rear which isn't ideal if you plan to go stanceboi.

TA in E39 was annoying as fuck because of our shitty roads, so you just end up bouncing alot in the seat lol..

"Spiritually, everything should be turbocharged" - Turbo Yoda.

David_2709

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#62   2018-11-21 14:56          
the suspension is old already so any replacement is better than now I think. I just want the car lower and don't want to get expensive stuff. Cutting springs is absolutely *no* optioon for me, I think doing that is maximum degeneracy level. But consider, 250 bux for coilovers, that's a production price about 60 bucks for a single damper with springs, for that price you have r+d, production, material, shipping from factory, and the producers want to earn something too. So you can not expect quality. Coilover install will be a lot of work too because I can't fold the seats, so I have to remove the whole rear bench for it.
no idea about welding diff prices, used diffs go for 50-100 bux here, on top of that the welding job.